Woody's landscape installs new sod grass lawns.
Woody’s Landscape installs Genuine Marathon Sod®, the leader in beautiful lawns from Southland Sod Company.
Before Sod Arrives:
Woody’s Landscape will kill the existing lawn or weeds as the case may be, by applying Roundup®, according to the directions on the package. One thorough treatment usually is enough to completely kill your old lawn/weeds. Removal of the dead lawn and hauling it away is the next step. This is done with a sod cutter or by hand depending on what each situations call for. Installing or repairing existing sprinklers will be done in the next step of installing your new sod lawn. After the sprinkler system is adequately installed all the debris and rocks will be removed from the area. Next comes the rototilling and adding soil amendments, this is done 4 to 6 inches in depth.
Raking and grading is the next step in the process, this will break up the large clods, and even out any areas that need smoothing. The finished grade level will be about ½ inch below the driveway, patios, and walkways.
Starter fertilizer will then be evenly spread over the graded area by hand or by using a spreader.
Rolling the prepared soil is the next step, this will firm up the soil before the sod is laid down. Any final fine grading will be done at this time before the sod goes down.
After the Sod Arrives:
Laying down the sod by staggering it with each new row so that the seams are offset from each other, and the ends will be butted up to each other tightly. Each piece will be fitted and cut if necessary. Any area that has curves in them will be cut to fit. If large areas are being done we will water the grass as necessary to prevent drying out, even if we are still laying the sod.
Rolling is the final lawn with the water wheel to insure a good contact between the sod and soil necessary in al installations.
Watering thoroughly is the most important part of developing the root system of your new sod lawn. You will need to avoid any dry patches in the lawn.
Mowing - Mowing should be one week after installation, be sure and not water when the grass is soggy with will leave ruts in the lawn from the mower. You will need to monitor this very carefully.
As seen the on the Southland Sod website:
100% improved tall fescue. Easy to care for. Slightly coarser, more fibrous than bluegrass. Most rapid growing, rugged and durable of the Marathon family. Stays green year round and adapts well to varying Southern California climates and soils.
Deeper green and greater density for a more well manicured look. Lower mowing height and slightly finer texture. Stays green year round and adapts well to varying Southern California climates and soils.
Denser, darker green, finer leafed and slower growing than previous generations. It can be mowed shorter resulting in a more compact carpet-like appearance. Stays green year round and adapts well to varying Southern California.
Watering New Marathon Sod
After all the sod is down and rolled, turn on your sprinklers and let them run until the sod is good and soaked. To keep it that way, for the first week water until runoff begins once every few hours at 7 am, 11 am and 2 pm. During the second week water twice a day at 7 am and 2 pm. During the third week water all Marathon Sod once a day at 7 am. Eventually taper back to once every two or three days. Adjust according to weather and season - water more frequently during warm/dry or windy weather. Do not water new sod between 4 pm and 4 am.
Important: Please refer to the supplemental watering bulletin for watering tips during the hot/humid summer months (July-September).
Watering New Marathon Lite Sod
Marathon Lite is grown in an organic mat which has been designed for its moisture holding capacity. The Marathon Lite mat holds more water than soil and therefore needs less frequent irrigation during the early establishment period. Once the turf begins to root into the soil, irrigating Marathon Lite is the same as the field-grown Marathons. As a general rule, you can water the Marathon Lite once per day for the first three weeks. If dry spots appear in the lawn during the afternoon, the irrigation time should be increased. If dry spots persist, an irrigation uniformity problem is likely, and an additional sprinkler head may be required. After the first three weeks, you should begin to taper back to once every two or three days, depending on how quickly the sod is rooting. Generally speaking, as the root system grows deeper, irrigation frequency should be reduced.
Watering Established Marathon Sod.